Review: Epic Tau Skyray – First Look
Monday, 31 October 2011
Sunday, 30 October 2011
The Colonel's Fine Finecast Foray (Part 5) + Liquid GS + Vallejo PP + Squadron WP
Part 4, here.
So, the bubble holes were filled, with compacted Games Workshop Liquid Green Stuff (GWLGS) (following initial application and slight hardening) and left to harden for 24 hours. They were then sanded down, with 1200 grit paper, in a 'damp' state, until the paper was flat with the resin surface. During that time, there was some crumbling and lifting of the putty.
I then primed, with my usual hand primer (it is so thin, I can wipe it away with my finger tip), and here is the result (clicky for biggy) ...
Careful inspection, shows, that the GWLGS has not held its adhesion and pits remain on the surface. This is also the case for Vallejo Liquid Plastic (VLP), in my experience. These acrylic-based media are fine for coarser/bulkier filling (via multiple fills), but, for one-hit, fine-detailed filling, non-shrinking media are really the way to go.
Here, I carried out the identical filling and sanding process, with Squadron White Putty (SWP) and it can be seen, that the cavities remain filled; priming will not alter that ...
In a recent video, Badgrendels of SMA, recommended Aves Epoxy Sculpt and, although it is a two-part, epoxy, medium, I will be trying it, so as to compare its fine finish, to SWP, for this fine-detailed work.
Materials, such as Milliput Superfine are great fillers, they are just much harder to sand (literally), which is not a good thing, for this job. There are also other brands/media, to try (e.g. Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Mr. Surfacer, Mr. Dissolved Putty), some not, normally, available in the UK.
Flash/line removal (very little), stripping, filling, priming, basing and arm-sticking next.
So, the bubble holes were filled, with compacted Games Workshop Liquid Green Stuff (GWLGS) (following initial application and slight hardening) and left to harden for 24 hours. They were then sanded down, with 1200 grit paper, in a 'damp' state, until the paper was flat with the resin surface. During that time, there was some crumbling and lifting of the putty.
I then primed, with my usual hand primer (it is so thin, I can wipe it away with my finger tip), and here is the result (clicky for biggy) ...
Here, I carried out the identical filling and sanding process, with Squadron White Putty (SWP) and it can be seen, that the cavities remain filled; priming will not alter that ...
In a recent video, Badgrendels of SMA, recommended Aves Epoxy Sculpt and, although it is a two-part, epoxy, medium, I will be trying it, so as to compare its fine finish, to SWP, for this fine-detailed work.
Materials, such as Milliput Superfine are great fillers, they are just much harder to sand (literally), which is not a good thing, for this job. There are also other brands/media, to try (e.g. Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Mr. Surfacer, Mr. Dissolved Putty), some not, normally, available in the UK.
Flash/line removal (very little), stripping, filling, priming, basing and arm-sticking next.
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