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... and added a resource links section, in that place.
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Tuesday, 10 July 2012
Colonel's Cardstocking Compendium !!! (Part 5)
Colonel's Cardstocking Compendium !!! (Part 4a)
(Ca) Sticking - Construction (Including Foamcore) and Tidy-Up
The reasons I use Pritt Stick, in the printout-sticking stage, are ... it is quick, the faces of the printout-card bond are under little stress, once the model is built, and there will be no warping. It is also very forgiving, if it needs to be removed, from the printout detail.
When it come to sticking 'boxes', 'pillars' etc, then stresses are introduced, and the best possible bond will reduce running repairs, later.
The Definitive Glue Thread, at WWG, collects the thoughts of many modellers and is recommended reading.
In my experience, PVA-based glues are fine, as long as not too much is asked of them. If that is the case, then the hot glue gun may then be needed, where it may be applied quickly (i.e. in corners and on faces, so as to add internal braces, struts etc).
To be sure, I carried out the following experiment, with Pritt Stick, Cheap PVA All Purpose White Glue and Mod Podge Matte ...
Using the sticking method, as in Section (A), I left them to cure, for ca. 6 hours (A), and 12 hours (B) (it is warm UK weather), at which time, I peeled back the tabs. This is card against card, but it should be expected to be the same for paper against card/paper against paper ...
All three did a good job, but, the best separation of layer-from-layer, in the same layer of card (i.e the most force needed) was with The Mod Podge. I will not say it was a lot more, but it will be my adhesive of choice, for this project. It also has other useful properties, as seen below ...
To follow.
The reasons I use Pritt Stick, in the printout-sticking stage, are ... it is quick, the faces of the printout-card bond are under little stress, once the model is built, and there will be no warping. It is also very forgiving, if it needs to be removed, from the printout detail.
When it come to sticking 'boxes', 'pillars' etc, then stresses are introduced, and the best possible bond will reduce running repairs, later.
The Definitive Glue Thread, at WWG, collects the thoughts of many modellers and is recommended reading.
In my experience, PVA-based glues are fine, as long as not too much is asked of them. If that is the case, then the hot glue gun may then be needed, where it may be applied quickly (i.e. in corners and on faces, so as to add internal braces, struts etc).
To be sure, I carried out the following experiment, with Pritt Stick, Cheap PVA All Purpose White Glue and Mod Podge Matte ...
Using the sticking method, as in Section (A), I left them to cure, for ca. 6 hours (A), and 12 hours (B) (it is warm UK weather), at which time, I peeled back the tabs. This is card against card, but it should be expected to be the same for paper against card/paper against paper ...
All three did a good job, but, the best separation of layer-from-layer, in the same layer of card (i.e the most force needed) was with The Mod Podge. I will not say it was a lot more, but it will be my adhesive of choice, for this project. It also has other useful properties, as seen below ...
To follow.
Labels:
Cardstock,
CCC,
Col's Workbench,
Converting,
Fantasy,
Gaming,
Glue,
Historical,
Hobby,
Review,
Scenery,
Sci-fi,
Specimen,
Table,
Terrain,
Tutorial
Colonel's Cardstocking Compendium !!! (Part 3)
Popooree
Sasha
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Finished: Magilla’s Pandora Neverborn Crew
Painting: Durango Game Space/Diceworks Terrain Project
Task Force Pherion
I'm in a Blister Pack Now!
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Finns fight the SS in Disposable Heroes
63rd de la Planta Swiss 2nd BTN
Takeda archers
WIP Commando conversions
Mars/Baal realm of battle board complete at last!
Finished: Magilla’s Pandora Neverborn Crew
Painting: Durango Game Space/Diceworks Terrain Project
Task Force Pherion
I'm in a Blister Pack Now!
P-47M "Zemke`s Wolfpack" - Tamiya 1/48
The complete works of Redscorps, a final post on my blog.
Char B1 - Tamiya 1/35
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